Jam Crack - The Niall Grimes Climbing Podcast
Jam Crack is a climbing podcast hosted by Niall Grimes. He talks with climbers from around the world, including top athletes, local characters, and committed enthusiasts. Episodes also feature readings of classic climbing stories. The show mixes interviews and storytelling from the international climbing scene.
Episodes
JCPC 211 James MacHaffie pt1 The Dark Lord of Trad
I had the pleasure of working alongside James "Caff" MacHaffie for a few years and never tired of his dark and boundless energy. One Monday morning I came into the office and, mockinly, asked if he had "Done any 9s this last week?" He had to stop and think about it. That's the level he was climbing at. And not only has he done numerous E9s and E10s, including many first ascents, but his solo climb
JCPC 210 Rachel Pearce part 2 - The Indan Face and Me
Part 2 of the Rachel Pearce chat where we hear about her ascent of the Indian Face as well as loads more about her. Enjoy x
JCPC 209 Rachel Pearce - Journey to the Indian Face part 1
North-Wales-based trad machine Rachel Pearce set headlines this summer with her ascent of the Indian Face. Indian Face, the country's first E9, had only had ten ascents in the 40 years since it was first done, practically every ascent making the headlines. This huge slab climb on the sombre cliffs of Cloggy stands for many as the ultimate in the committing end of trad climbing. With her ascent Rac
JCPC 208 Steve Bancroft - Gritstone Renaissance Man
An honour to have climbing legend Steve Bancroft who, along with John Allen, headed up the Gritstone Renaissance of the 1970s. Many stories and slices of life from that golden era. Hear the tales behind Moon Crack, Edge Lane, Profit of Doom, Hairless Heart, Wall of Horrors, London Wall and many more. A true view behind the history. Thanks to this week's sponsors: Summit Financial Services ht
JCPC 207 - ClimbFestering
A lame account of how I went to the North Face's DWS event in London the other week and failed to corner anyone for the Jam. Sorry. But at least I survived.
JCPC 206 Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone is a hugely driven mountaineer, alpinist and rock climber. He has redpointed up to 8b+ and trad E9 and is best-known internationally for a first ascent on Latok 1 for which he won the acclaimed Piolets d'Or.
JCPC 205 Tina Breslin - Peace of Mind
She may be small but she likes to go tall! At 5 foot 2, Tina Breslin has to get creative to solve the sequences on the stunning highballs on remote gritstone crags of North Yorkshire. But when she does, she find a peace and silence of mind that is impossible to find in everyday life. Let's hear her crack. Thanks to this week's sponsors: Summit Financial Services https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/
JCPC 204 Ascent: The Rise of British Rock Climbing
Anthony King talks about his book, Ascent, which weaves his personal experiences with the rise and change of rock climbing in Britain over a century.
JCPC 203 Jason Pickles part 2 - Potter, Leo, Honnold and me.
Part 2 of this incredible chat. Part 1 in previous show. Thanks to this week's sponsors: Summit Financial Services https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/
JCPC 202 Jason Pickles pt 1 - Dean Potter, Honnold, Leo and me
Jason Pickles spent the best part of a decade in Yosemite hanging with the fabled Stone Monkeys. Here we hear about Jason's times there and time spent ith Dean Potter, Leo Houlding, Alex Honnold and others. Banging. Thanks to this week's sponsors: Summit Financial Services https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/
JCPC 201 Lena Drapella
As official photographer for World Climbing, Lena gets to witness the action we don't. Let's hear about what she sees when she looks outside and in.
JCPC 200 What Climbing has Taught Me
Just me, folks. Reflecting on some of the lessons climbing has taught me and playing some beautiful music x
JCPC 199 Eben Muse - Landscape, Language and the Llanberis Pass
Welsh-born Eben is passionate about wild places and his and others' rights to be there. We chat about his Welsh childhood and how that and the outdoors have shaped him. Together we look to understand the cultural and social world of North Wales in the face of it's huge popularity with visitors.
JCPC 198 Adam Ondra - more milk from the GOAT part 2
Second part of this lovely chat with the greatest climber who has ever lived. In this one we dig deep into his flashing of 8C boulder problems, thoughts on going harder again and about climbers who really impress him.
JCPC 197 Adam Ondra - More milk from the GOAT part 1
The world's greatest climber returns to the show to talk Olympics, B.I.G, YouTube, bouldering and more.
JCPC 196 Ben Bransby part 2
Part 2 of the Ben Bransby chat. Talking about losing his dad on an expedition, Patagonia, Leeds, Chris Wentworth, family and mental illness, not climbing all of Stanage. Brilliant.
JCPC 195 Ben Bransby part 1
Trad master, old-school hone and all out legend Ben Bransby spills his bean. Ben pushed the cutting-edge of trad climbing, going ground-up on E9 when E9 was top of the pops. His easy attitude and spirited approach made his ascents so much more then numbers alone could tell. Cool guy, check it out.
JCOPC 194 Mat Wright
Elite climber Mat Wright is cut from a different cloth than your average professional crimp-jockey. We hear about Mat's journey from a sometimes-fractious childhood all the way to 9a, 8C and E11 (not really). Mat opens up about some frisky situations along the way to enlightenment. Much crack.
Jam Crack Archives: The View from Dead Horse Point
A classic Jam Crack story episode from 2016. Chris Schulte reads the classic tale of climbing exploration in the American desert. Pure gold.
JCPC 192 Hamish Frost
Scottish winter climbing activist and photographer Hamish Frost traces his career in the outdoors, thinks about his art and delves into his experience of coming out in the world of climbing.
Jam Crack Archives: Taylor Parsons
One from the vaults of 2021. Taylor Parson's incredible story of transition from world-class boulderer to mum of three and the trauma and passion that mapped the way. Trigger warning: suicide references.
JCPC 190 Pritchard Wainwright Trango part 2
Part two of this double. Hear about the origins of speedy aid and how the pair got on on their expedition to this beautiful mountain.
JCPC 189 Pritchard Wainwright Trango part 1
In 1995 two of UK trad climbing's brightest stars left Llanberis for Pakistan's Trango Tower. Paul Pritchard and Adam Wainwright honed their skills and boldness on the sea cliffs of North Wales. Their lives led them onto bigger things. In part one of this two-parter we trace a line through their friendship, what climbing was like in the early 1990s and their motivations to go to Pakistan.
JCPC 188 Holy Shit
I set off to introduce the Pritchard wainwright podcast but accidentally talk crap for 50 minute. Apologies all round. Big love x
JCPC187 Siebe Vanhee - Pembroke rampage
Pembroke is surely the UK's favourite climbing holiday destination. This year Belgian Siebe Vanhee came to visit. Between visits to the pub and nights' camping in the field, he amassed a mindblowing ticklist of onsights and flashes of many of the country's best trad routes. Hear all about that, as well as being beaten by the Dawn Wall and future plans at 7000m. Thanks to this week's sponsors, Su
JCPC 186 John Dunne Part Two
The second part of the John Dunne chat talking Parthian Shot and life after injury.
JCPC 185 John Dunne Part One
Here's a true heavyweight of the 80s and 90s sport and trad world. John Dunne punched out top level sport routes at Malham and a series of trad routes that are still the country's finest ticks. He ruffled feathers along the way. Let's hear his crack. Thanks to this week's sponsors: Summit Financial Services https://www.summit-fs.co.uk/ The BMC 25% off your first year of BMC membership here: http
JCPC 184 Lincoln Knowles
Lincoln Knowles, a 21-year-old US-based TikTokker, YouTuber, FreeSoloist and RageBaiter, tells us all about his funny videos where he annoys the shit out of people. Let's hear his crack.
JCPC 183 Oliver Tippett - Hard Aid on El Cap
El Cap is still the crucible of hard aid climbing, where devotees come to test themselves and learn. Oliver Trippett is one such disciple and he tells us of this vertical world.
JCPC 182 Jason Kehl
Artist, developer, shaper, traveller and all round baller, Jason Kehl, AKA Cryptochild, tells us about his quirks and works and his love of developing beautiful boulder problems in the American desert.
JCPC 181 Milena Mühlen
Good friend of the show Milena Mühlen reads a self-penned story, Climbing and Womanhood, telling of a recent experience.
JCPC 180 Andy Popp
My old mucker Andy chatting North Wales in 90s, soloing, freedom, grit, history and rambling. So warm.
JCPC 179 Carolyn Young
A journey through cancer for committed climber, Carolyn Young. One of the many stories from Marsha Belaeva's new book, We Are Subculture.
JCPC 178 Talking Crap with Matt Sparksy
Endless shit talking. Young Matt makes me listen to his opinions on all aspects of modern climbing. Funniest ever swear to god!
JCPC 177 Ricky Bell
Ricky Bell swept his paintbrush of adventure over Irish trad climbing to create so many beautiful leads of the highest quality in the Mournes, Burren and Fair Head. Outstanding! He documented his and his friends' shenanigans in a bunch of fun and soulful films, full of joy and vibe. He's a Celtic soul brother. Hear his crack.
JCPC 176 Chris Schulte Patience
Chris is the defininig voice and spirit of Jam Crack. He's back again with another reading, this time his own story, Patience. It's all about trying o be a climber and a person in the world. Beautiful.
JCPC 175 Steph Davis part 2
Part 2 of the amazing Steph Davis interview. Part 1 is episode 174
JCPC 174 Steph Davis part 1
This star of US adventure climbing shone brightly in the early 2000s with big free ascents on El Cap at a time when few ventured there without aid. Big solos, desert sandstone crack testpieces, expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Baffin and Paragonia, amongst others, made her one of the most experienced adventureclimbers of her day. Later years saw the adventures continue with the embracing of base jumping
JCPC 173 Donegal Stories
Niall Grimes reads some of his own stories about Ireland's County Donegal in celebration of St Patrick's Day. Plus Mary Shiels' poetry and Brian's medley. Slainte!
JCPC 172 Magnus Midtbø
With well over two millions subscibers to his YouTube channel, Magnus Midtbø is one of the most famous climbers in the world. But what lies behind this Norwegian tough guy. Magnus joined Jam Crack in a live event at the KMF to find out. Support from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for
JCPC 171 Rob Matheson
Lifer, and then some! Lakes legend Rob Matheson was at the forefront of Lake District standards since the 1970s, rarely taking his foot off the gas of hard trad climbing. Skill, boldness and passion took him up the area's classics. His fire burns just as bright today as he aims himself towards one of the UK's most terrifying E7s. He's funny, kind and inspiring. Hear his crack!
JCPC 170 Xian Goh
London-based professional climbing coach Xian Goh has spent years observing climbers climb, paying attention to how they move and how they think. She has now converted her knowledge and experience into a book on climbing movementcalled Smooth. Let's listen up!
JCPC 169 Alex Huber part 3
He's had his dinner, he's met the Mexicans, and now he's back. German world shaker Alex Huber joins the Jam for the third part of his conversations. Amazing. Support from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mountaineering specialist today on 0345
JCPC 168 Julian Lines part 2
Second part of the Julian Lines interview. Part one is previous episode.
JCPC 167 Julian Lines part 1
Pure soul. Julian is one of the UK's most extraordinary climbers, a stoic toejammer, a ramrod individualist, an aesthetic ascetic. Film star, prize-winning author, hermit. Get in! Support (thank you) from Summit Financial Services. Summit Financial Services have been providing Life Insurance, Income Protection and Critical Illness Cover for climbers for over 25 years. Speak to a climbing and mou
JCPC 166 A Lazy Saturday Mix
A chilled mix for a chilled day. Tracks: Be/Common, We Came Far/Paqua, Dominos/Donald Byrd, Black Gold of the Sunn/Minnie Ripperton/4Hero, Sometimes I'm Wrong/Curtis Mayfield/Luxxury, Talking Blue/Bob Marley, Heaven/Rolling Stones, Hungry for your Love/Van Morrison, Wish I Didn't Miss You/Angie Stone, Barry/T Markarkis, Swimming Places/Julian Jabre, Lazer Worshippers, Take me Higher/Fertile Grioun
JCPC 165 Zoë Peetermans Interview
Competition beast Zoë Peetermans is current British Bouldering champ and lead vice champ. She climbs like she means it and is magic to watch and listen to. Check out her crack.
JCPC 164 Zoë Peetermans Intro
NGL - I set out to do the intro to the Zoë Peetermans interview and just kept talking - sorry not sorry. The real interview is on its way ASAP Includes haikus from Anesu and Mike.
JCPC 163 Rick Accomazzo talks Tobin Sorenson
Tobin Sorenson was one of America's boldest and most gifted climbers of the 1970s. Tobin's friend Rick Accomazzo comes on the show to tell us about Tobin and why he chose to write a book about him.
JCPC 162 Siara Fabbri
With her ascent of New Base Line, Siara Fabbri joined the world elite of women climbing 8B+. A huge achievement for someone who started climbing at 21 and who works full time in cutting edge science. Antimatter, anyone?
JCPC 161 Alex Huber returns
He's back! We got Alex Huber back on the show to chat about pushing sport climbs into 9a+, El Cap free routes, Wolfgang Güllich, controversial opinions and lot more. Go for your guns! For BMC insurance click here https://bit.ly/3ZtcR2W
JCPC 160 Alex Huber
Alex Huber rose to prominence in the early 1990s with ascents of what were the world's hardest sport climbs, consolidating the 9a grade and pushing on into 9a+. He brought his power to freeing the walls of El Cap and changed that mighty golden landscape forever adding the most popular and beautiful climbs on the great faces. At the same time, he brought his power and skill to much more serious and
JCPC 159 James Pearson part 2
In episode 2 of the James chat we talk about big downgrades, the fallout, getting back up the E12 and his recent repeat of MacLeod's mystical Echo Wall.
JCPC 158 James Pearson part 1
Trad-monster James Pearson reflects on the early days of marching through the numbers to the top of grade-mountain and finding himself eventually on the edge of the cliff. Powerful stuff, lots of fun.
JCPC 158 Caroline Ciavaldini
French-born ex-comp best turned lover of British hard trad mega-classics Caro sits down and answers some of her own questions - is that a thing? Super crack.
JCPC 158 Caroline Ciavaldini
French-born ex-comp best turned lover of British hard trad mega-classics Caro sits down and answers some of her own questions - is that a thing? Super crack.
JCPC 157 Neil Gresham Part 2
In part 2 of the Neil Gresham chat we talk Indian Face, Hard Grit, travelling and exploration, DWS, training and professionalism. Brilliant!
JCPC 156 Neil Gresham Part 1
Neil Gresham has been chomping hard at the climbing bit for nearly forty years, always pushing hard and changing his focus. In part 1 we hear about Sheffield in the 1990s. Get in!
JCPC 155 Jim Pope reads Menlove
Jim Pope reads End of a Climb by John Menlove Edwards, widely regarded as one of the finest bits of pre-war climbing writing.
JCPC 154 Tom Bolger
Away from the spotlight, Yorkshire-born Tom Bolger has quietly been redpointing and creating sport climbs of the highest calibre and is one of the few British climbers who are solidly climbing into the ninth grade. We caught up with Tom in his home in the global heart of sport climbing, Catalunya, to see what makes him tick.
JCPC 153 Beth Rodden
Climbing royalty. Beth Rodden's impact on climbing from the late 90s to the late 00s was huge. She pushed forward female standards in sport and trad, did early free ascents on El cap, and established a crack testpiece where ascents still make the news. Injuries led to a stepping back, motherhood followed and she has now written her autobiography, A Light Through the Cracks.
JCPC 152 Remus Knowles
Me and Remus talk crap about climbing.
JCPC 151 Andrew Bisharat
Writer and podcaster Andrew Bisharat looks back on a life in journalism, creativity, climbing, being mbbed and his involvement in the Palestine-based film, Resistance Climbing.
JCPC 150 Jerry Moffatt Revelations
On the 15th anniversary of Jerry Moffatt Revelations, for which I was ghost writer, I read some sections, remember the creation and listen to some recordings.
JCPC 149 Mari Salvesen
Norweigan trad beast, crack shuffler and professional amateur Mari talks Troll Wall, local clubs, El Cap and always looking forward.
JCPC 148 Billy, Alex and The Nose Part 2
Part 2 of the amazing tale of Billy Ridal and Alex Waterhouse's epic free ascent of The Nose on El Cap.
JCPC 147 Alex, Billy and The Nose Part 1
Having recently retired from a life of indoor comps, two plastic-hardened heroes declare to the world that they are off to free climb The Nose of El Cap, the world's greatest trad route. Get outta town. Part 2 follows tomorrow.
JCPC 146 Alistair Lee
Al Lee's films have documented UK trad climbing and climbers for over a decade. Movies such as On Sight, Climbing Blind, Blocheads and The Prophet have made the screen shine. This week let's hear Al's crack.
JCPC 145 Jam Crack Christmas Disco
Your annual sermon from the disco pulpit where the Jesus of beats and the Devil of groove battle it out in an epic dance to the death. Hot dog! Love's a-winnin!
JCPC 144 Zoe Wood
23-year-old Zoe was born into climbing in the hills and homes of North Wales where the slopes of Eryri turn their eyes towards the sea, This world was sketched in a recent film, Adra, which captured too her love for her home. Hear about it and her current career as a routesetter and a move to Sheffield. Many Cackles are had.
JCPC 143 Leo Houlding part 2
In part 2 we hear about Leo's attempt to push standards and adventure on El Cap, breathtaking stories of wingsuit flying, racing Jeremy Clarkson, then taking his skills to the arctic wilderness and finally bringing it closer to home.
JCPC 142 Leo Houlding part 1
Leo Houlding is one of the finest and boldest rock climbers Britain has produced. In this first of a two-part interview we follow his journey from early Gritstone and wild Welsh forays onto the huge canvas of Yosemite's El Capitan. Stunning.
JCPC 141 Chris Bonington
Chris Bonington's name is synonymous with high altitude mountaineering the world over and he led the charge into the extreme during the sport's most ambitious years. Alongside a successful and visionary career in the Himalayan giants from the 1960s through to the 1980s, CB communicated our sport to the armchair audience via his books and presentations. Hear all about his highlife.
JCPC 140 Russ Clune
Russ Clune has been more places, met more people and climbed more climbs than most of us put together. Hear this Gunks legend tell us about decades of climbing fun around the world, how things used to be and how things have changed. Old school guaranteed!
JCPC 139 Anna Hazelnutt
YouTuber, influencer and all-time trad slab moose Anna Hazelnutt takes us behind the scenes of video creation and climbing-wall superstardom. Legend.
JCPC 138 Tents Situation
Two stories. Niall Grimes reads his own Tents Situation and Tom LeFanu read The Waiting Game. Enjoy xx
JCPC 137 Didier Berthod
Who can forget Didier Berthod from his attempts on Cobra Crack in 2007's smash video, First Ascent. The Swiss-born crack maestro's life sure has taken some turns since then. Find out all.
JCPC 136 Burgess Book of Lies
Al Burgess reads wild stories of 1980s alpinism and all that that world entailed - fighting for your life and passing into death.
JCPC 135 Ruby Petch
Adventure boulderer Ruby Petch is one of the driving forces of the development of North Devon. By hiking pads, figuring tides, checking coves and sniffing out nooks Ruby and her small band of pad pirates have carried the proud Devon torch into new areas. Hear her crack here.
JCPC 134 Adam Ondra
The world's best climber? Hell yeah! Adam Ondra gives us a tale of childhood, grades, Dawn Wall, comps and choss. Get in!
